Sweetleaf

Sweetleaf, More Than Meets The Eye

By Daniel Sennet

You wouldn’t walk into a coffee shop and order a burger, would you?
In the case of Sweetleaf on Center Blvd in Long Island City, I did just that… and you know what? I don’t regret it. Not for an instant. In fact, I’d do it again.
Against the odds and your instincts, the chef in the kitchen at Sweetleaf, using only a frying pan and a panini press, managed to prepare a very respectable burger. In the words of the bartender (not the barista, but the bartender), he “MacGyver’d the fuck out of the place,” paying his respects to the chef’s inventive use of the space. Speaking of which, the proprietor is trying to change the casual, if not dark house of caffeine into more of a lounge that serves coffee and pastries by day, and innovative cocktails, limited but well-curated beers and delicious bar eats by night. And somehow… it all works.  Even the website is dominated by a picture of the single malts available. Walking into  a space where “you will find a lot of reclaimed wood, antiques and a nod to Long Island City’s industrial roots” (from their website, I couldn’t have described it any better), you immediately feel relaxed and at home; the perfect place to indulge and imbibe. Ignoring your urge to order their famous Rocket Fuel Iced Coffee or Voodoo Child signature drink, you broaden your mind and explore the other menus. 
I entered the place around 5:30 and there were a few others inside enjoying their Americanos and Lattes. I asked the gentleman behind the counter if I could see their menu. He had to ask his associate to come on over to assist me. Evidently, the coffee side of the house and the bar side of the house don’t chat. A more seamless ordering experience is needed. I digress. A jovial if not spacey, but informed bartender talked to me about the 4 beers on tap, and I opted for a Smuttynose IPA. In retrospect, for the happy hour deal at $7, I should have ordered one of their delicious sounding cocktails, like the Revolver, made with Bourbon, house-made coffee liqueur and orange bitters, or a  Long Island City Special, made with Blackstrap rum, house-made coffee liqueur, fresh lemon juice, agave and seltzer. The beer was served in a frosted glass, all the more special because it was a rather warm day outside. Nice touch.
I ordered the Burger with bacon and a plate of the curried artichoke heart hummus. It seemed necessary as the Burger was unaccompanied by fries, veggie sticks, chips, etc. About 15 minutes later, they were delivered to our table and what I saw resting in front of me belied the coffeeshop environment in which I was sitting. This was legit. And by legit, I mean large, juicy, smelled of delicious beefiness and topped with thick-cut Applewood smoked bacon that was not from an Oscar Meyer package. My first bite confirmed my initial reaction. My senses are bombarded with the taste of salty and smoky bacon: chewy, not crispy, and substantial, but not overpowering. The burger itself was pan-fried as opposed to grilled, thus sealing in maximal moistness and flavor. It was cooked through, but I didn’t mind knowing that I wasn’t compromising the texture. Strong hints of the butter it was fried in and the salt and pepper used for flavoring, the end result commanded my respect and my continued patronage. On the liberal side of 6 oz’s, this one held its own against the more traditional burgers served locally. 
The hummus was another good choice. What it lacked in bold flavors, it made up for with its chunky texture and very delicious, house-made pita crisps. I’m not saying it was bland, but most of the hummus plates these days are served very spicy or overly garlicky. This was just right. What I appreciated was that the ratio of hummus to dipping apparatus was such that each bite held a weighty amount. It can be disappointing when the ratio is off and you’re left with too much of one or the other. 
All in all, Sweetleaf does a great job transforming itself into a cocktail lounge serving up delicious eats. Points to the chef for innovative use of the space and to the proprietor for re-engaging the locals once their caffeine needs have been met. According to the website, “Owner Rich Nieto reached out to his friend Rich Boccato of the acclaimed Dutch Kills bar to design the cocktail menu and train the bar staff.”
At $30 all-in for a refreshing beer, a delicious burger, a satisfying hummus plate and an easy-going ambiance, Sweetleaf becomes a repeatable spot based not on its convenience factor, but on the quality of its food and drinks.