John Browns

JOHN BROWNS IS SMOKING!
LICqueenstv writer Daniel Sennet 

There are few meals in the world that give you such a strong feeling of satisfaction, of joy, and of being at your momma’s dinner table as good barbecue.  A tender smoked brisket or fall-off-the-bone ribs can leave you at once extremely full and yet, longing for more. And that is how it is at John Brown's Smokehouse, in Long Island City. I have the privilege of living close-by and one would think that the novelty would wear off, but not this place. In fact, each visit is better than the last. 
It’s a Monday-night, a cool 65 degrees outside and my wife and I are looking for a casual place with above-average food (after all, this is New York and above average food is the standard). We decide on John Brown’s because we know it fits the bill: really filling, simple, yet robust meals, relatively cheap prices, good people and a great atmosphere. We walk in and get greeted with a smile by the server just behind the counter. Not the fake smile that most hostesses greet you with, but a genuine smile that says to me, “oh man – you’re in for some good cookin tonight!” The place is about half full, but it is closer to 9pm and LIC isn’t what you’d call a raging community. Immediately as you walk in, the waft of sweet hickory smoke hits you and you immediately wish that you could bottle up that smell and take it home. (hint: don’t wash your shirt for a few days). In front of me is the open chop-shop where the ordered meats are carved, the servings prepared and the meal is plated. Lining the right wall are old wooden tables and chairs leading to the back where there is a bar. The jewel of the restaurant is the back patio – lined with picnic tables in a valley surrounded by 5 and 6 story buildings. Ever so quaint, just what you’d expect from a barbecue joint.
We ordered so as to maximize our intake and our variety of meats. I got the 3 ribs + 1 meat combo that came with a side (coleslaw, thanks for asking) and my wife ordered the two meat combo (chicken and smoked turkey) along with a side of the brisket-infused baked beans. The total, with tax and tip, was $38.  Thankfully, nothing was “86’ed” meaning that all foods were available. On a Friday or Saturday night at this time, you’d stand a high chance for missing out on the Burnt Ends or the Ribs. The food is served on throw away plates sitting on plastic trays, the way traditional barbecue should be. After having been at Kreutz’s in Texas, I almost expected there to be no cutlery, but this is New York after all. I watched the smokemaster do his job with envy. With a smile and a gracious heart, he served up more food than I ever had a chance of finishing.
The ribs weren’t quite fall-off-the-bone, but close enough so that one could savor the carnivorous act of pulling the meat. It slid off easily and in the process, you got to savor each second of the dry-spiced rub that is both sweet and yet, infused with a mixture of smoky-paprika, peppercorn and chile (amongst other things that I couldn’t quite place). Not too fatty, just enough to keep the meat juicy, but jumpin jehosephat – these were some of the best ribs I have ever eaten. The brisket was cut thin, medium-fat, and like the ribs, just one iota above buttery tenderness. I think the meats are prepared for you to savor the experience. This place competes with, and in my humble opinion, is better than any other barbecue place in the city. 
Opposite me was a tray of more sensible, less of a cholesterol bomb, smoked chicken (served in quarters) and smoked turkey (served thinly sliced, maybe ¼ inch thick). To the less initiated, it’s hard to cook a chicken and have it stay moist. Or rather, it’s easy to screw up a chicken. What was served to us was on par with the $70 whole chickens you can order at a steakhouse. Just plain honest-to-goodness delicious white meat. Its cousin, the 4 slices of smoked turkey also managed to stay moist and flavorful. In fact, we have been to known to just come here for the turkey by the pound. You don’t find it on many barbecue menus in the city, which makes this somewhat of a unique delicacy. I unconditionally recommend it.
Finally, a note about the sides. There is a funny and ill-fitting saying that a barbecue place is only as good as its sides. Some places specialize in the sides and in fact, they become the main attraction. John Brown’s obviously stick’s the basics here, but does with a focus that brings out the best qualities. My coleslaw was vinegar based, and so maintained its crunch. It was sweet to taste which brought a nice balance to spice of the ribs. The piece de resistance was the baked beans. Clearly baked with molasses and with rich chunks of brisket, these hearty and soulful beans were outright fantastic. It’s as if this side was paying homage to the art of cooking sides to a main. The earthiness of this side perfectly complemented the lighter white meat fare. If you go with a group, make sure to try the other sides. The cornbread is akin to bread-pudding than to a traditional slice of cornbread and the mac and cheese, is well, just the way you’d your momma to serve it to you as a child. 
Finally, you can’t go for some down-home barbecue and not compliment it with a beer. There is a bar in the back of the place, just before the entrance to the patio, that has 7 or 8 craft beers on tap. The bartender attends his taps with pride and noted that they only ever order 1 keg of beer, no matter how popular it is. So the entire lineup is always fresh, always interesting and falls squarely within the boundaries of excellent craft beers. There is anything eclectic - like some other beer bars in Long Island City offer – just beers that are perfectly curated to the place and the offer on offer that evening.
All in all, this was one of the most thoroughly satisfying meals I have ever had. We ate out on the back patio under the stars and amongst friends, all commenting on what a perfect night it was for barbecue.  You just can’t have a bad meals  here and so if you’re in the area and looking for something quaint yet fun, delicious yet approachable and ultimately satisfying, go to John Brown’s Smokehouse – you won’t regret it.