Water's edge restaurant

A Strikeout at Water’s Edge
By Eso Romero

What seems to be a nondescript industrial zone at the end of 44th Drive with cars parked every which way, there is Water’s Edge restaurant. Frankly, I had never known about the existence of this restaurant that is indeed on the edge of the East River. Had it not been for Restaurant Week, I may have never known about this high end dining establishment.

With a prix fixe menu for both lunch and dinner, I opted for the lunchtime meal on a cloudy day after a snowfall. Unfortunately, the place was completely empty when my lunch companion and I arrived at 12:45pm. I guess their participation in Restaurant Week was a way to lure more customers. Unlike the more casual restaurant scene in LIC, Water’s Edge was a step up with white tablecloth settings and green leather chairs. We were seated beside the window, overlooking a snowy balcony and a dynamic view of the Manhattan skyline. Customers trickled in during our meal, getting to about 3 additional tables by the time we departed. The low volume allowed for attentive and friendly service. Unfortunately, that and the scenic view were the only two redeeming qualities of my experience.

With the choice of a starter, entree and dessert from the prix fixe menu, we started out with a slice of warm bread and butter. I doubt it was freshly baked bread, but it was edible. To start, my companion ordered the chicken sweet chili dumplings. The dumplings were beautifully plated with individual dumplings placed on top of quinoa, drizzled with a chili glaze and topped with ginger and green onions. My friend found the chili sauce a bit overpowering in its sweetness and preferred more spice. She was also disappointed that the dumplings were more room temperature than piping hot. My starter was the butternut squash soup, which was topped with toasted pepitas. I was sorely disappointed. The consistency was watery, the soup was underseasoned and the flavor profile was shallow. I could hardly taste the butternut squash. Strike 1!

We both ordered the same entree: the roasted Atlantic salmon served over a butternut squash puree, cauliflower, carrots and a green peppercorn sauce. We both also ordered the salmon medium and to our dismay, both entrees were overcooked. While the salmon was certainly not completely dry, it wasn’t medium and tender as I would’ve liked. Strike 2! The saving grace of the dish were the sides; the vegetables, puree and sauce. Sadly, the quarter cup amount of the butternut squash puree had more flavor than my soup. 

For the final act to the prix fixe meal, my companion ordered the molten lava cake, while I had the crème brûlée. The lava cake was served a la mode with a dusting of graham cracker crumbs and powdered sugar. My friend would have preferred a warmer temperature to the lava cake, with the “lava” spilling out from the center upon the first cut. No such lava here. It was a mushy texture but certainly not liquidy as molten lava cake should be. Strike 3! As for my crème brûlée, after two disappointing dishes this dessert provided a positive end to the meal. The crisp shell contrasted nicely with the rich custard inside.

I had high hopes for Water’s Edge but regrettably, it was a disappointing experience. The regular menu is overpriced for mediocre fare. What you’re paying for is the amazing vistas of Manhattan. Do yourself a favor: enjoy the view from Gantry Plaza and save some money.

Water's edge restaurant 401 44th Dr, Long Island City, NY 11101