CYCLO VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT

Cyclo Restaurant
(CEE cloh)
by Eso Romero

Lunchtime on a Thursday afternoon was a busy one for Cyclo. It is the lone Vietnamese restaurant in LIC, named after the three-wheeled bicycle taxi in Vietnam. It is a newer arrival than its sister restaurant, Tuk Tuk, which is named after the motorcycle taxis in Thailand. Cyclo was inspired by Tuk Tuk’s original chef, Hoang Lieng, who is now the chef-owner of V-Nam Cafe in the East Village.

Modernly furnished with dark wood tables and red accent walls, the restaurant is simply decorated with few items that advertise the Vietnamese influence. Customers seem to flock here for the affordable lunch options, which include appetizers, banh mi (Vietnamese sandwiches), pho (noodle soup) and assorted rice dishes. One may also order from their dinner menu, including clay pots and chef specials. 

This was my third visit here, all made during the lunch hour and every visit a delicious success. There’s enough assortment on the menu to allow one to have something different every time. Much to my surprise, it was my companion’s first experience with Vietnamese food, so I was delighted to provide a mini-culinary tour. I indulged in the Vietnamese iced coffee despite the blustery cold weather. Water filters through ground coffee into a cup filled with a tablespoon or 2 of condensed milk, a nice alternative to the standard milk and sugar. A tall glass filled with ice awaits the first pour. My companion tried the ginger lemon soda, which she thoroughly enjoyed.

We ordered the spinach dumplings to start. Only 2 to an order for the lunch portion, but it was a sufficient tasting before our lunch entrees. I find most deep fried foods quite irresistible (The health gods are frowning down upon me, I know!) and this was no exception. What made this dumpling particularly good was the thinness of the wrapper. The thinner the wrapper, the crispier the crunch! The spinach garlic filling and dipping sauce completed the perfect bite. Yes, I would order that again.

Being a Vietnamese cuisine-newbie, my friend went safe with the spicy lemongrass curried fried rice with chicken. She can take her spice, but found the fire a bit overpowering after a few bites, so much that it obliterated much of the other flavors. Once the temperature of the rice cooled down, she did mention that the flavors of the lemongrass, onions, red and green peppers came through more clearly. I went with one of my all-time favorite Vietnamese dishes, bun cha goi (vermicelli noodle salad with pork spring rolls), which I have not yet had at Cyclo. It was beautifully presented meal in an asymmetrical bowl. At first glance, it seemed like a huge pile of noodles, but much to my relief, as I mixed the ingredients together with the nuoc cham (Vietnamese dipping sauce) underneath were freshly chopped lettuce, carrots, bean sprouts, scallions and basil. The spring rolls were crisp and filling, though I’d venture to recommend that the rolls be sliced in smaller pieces. Easier to eat along with noodles and veggies on the fork. Wait, did I say fork? Yes. Sadly, they didn’t offer chopsticks with the meal. I would have definitely preferred them. 

Needless to say, it was a very pleasant meal. It was my third time there and I’d go back for a fourth and a fifth...but next time, dinner. Based on the crowds, It seems to be a neighborhood favorite. Without any Vietnamese restaurant competition in LIC at the moment, Cyclo is certainly here to stay.