Brooks Italian American Cuisine

An Oldie but a Goodie 
BROOKS 1890 
by Daniel Sennet
On my way to someplace else, my wife and I walked by Brooks (on Jackson Ave and 45th Rd), the same way we’ve each done a thousand times, but this time was different. This time we stopped mid-stride, looked up to the sign straight out of the 1950’s and decided to go in and have an old fashioned dinner. An old-fashioned it was. Everything about the place, inside and out, speaks of good Italian-American comfort; it’s the kind of place that would be your first choice if you can’t go home to your mother’s cooking.
The façade at first glance, and the ambiance, at second, especially when compared to the recent openings in and around LIC, belies the food that’s served. Upon entering, your eyes are drawn to the bar – the MASSIVE bar that must be at least 30 or 40 feet long – it runs most the length of the room. The centerpiece of it, and indeed of the entire restaurant, is a custom built saloon unit with a glass overhang that tops three shelves of respectable liquors, including a great selection of bourbons. A decent selection of beers, including a few local microbrews, is also available for those so inclined. We sat at an old wooden table at the far side of the restaurant and were given very well used, laminated menus. I started with my favorite, Widow Jane Bourbon, a very generous pour that cost $10, which is about $3-5 less than any other bar I’ve seen it at. We see traditional Italian appetizers, such as calamari ($9), Antipasto Italiano ($11), and staples like homemade lasagna ($13) and gnocchi caprese ($14). On the other hand, you could order a Caesar salad ($8), a 10oz burger for $10, a BLT for $9 or a New York Strip for $21. Granted, this is a not a steakhouse and so ordering a strip would give me some trepidation, but I watched as one was carried to our neighbors, and it looked spot on. I was afraid of suffering from orders’ remorse.
We opted to start with a bowl of the Italian Wedding Soup ($5), and one serving was big enough for us to share. Rich, full flavored and certainly hearty, this soup tasted of love. One spoonful gets you a few of the tiny meatballs floating around, delightful little noodle balls and a meat broth so appetizing you could call it a night after just the soup. My wife ordered the California burger ($11) served with guacamole, tomato, chopped red onion and chipotle aioli under a tender brioche bun.  It was ordered medium, and sure enough, served medium with just a little bit of redness in the middle, but juicy, fresh and lightly spiced to bring out the flavors in the meat. It was just delicious. I opted for the Chicken Hero ($9), a massive grilled sandwich served with zucchini, roasted tomato and pepper, and pesto. The chicken was prepared fabulously, with a few thinly cut breasts accompanied by a mole hill (ie normal portion) of French fries.
As the meal served, our waiter chatted with us. He mentioned that the bar had been untouched since 1890, when the restaurant originally opened. It had been through a few different lives under different management. Before its current occupants, it was an Irish Pub. While the nationality of the menu had changed, the old world charm was intact. It works as a good pub, a better restaurant and a fine place to chill out at if there’s a game on. For a meal, Brooks offers up a thoroughly satisfying experience, certainly one worth repeating. When there are so many restaurants trying to reinvent the wheel, sometimes the best meals are the ones that are tried and true. That’s what Brooks offers.