by Daniel Sennet
Station LIC on track to be one of the better watering holes in Long Island City

I recently had drinks at the newly opened Station LIC and I must say, the experience was surprisingly groovy. The railroad themed bar (although any real resemblance to the MTA/Amtrak is coincidental) has this Manhatteny-type vibe to it, but it checks the condescension at the door in favor of a relaxed and welcoming environment.

Located at 10-37 Jackson Ave (just one block from the 7 train exit on 50th), you can’t miss the railroad light pointing out the miniature barnyard door. Upon entry, you’ll notice exposed brick, high ceilings, a suave glass bar, high tables & chairs in the middle of the floor coupled with with normal seating along the walls. The owners spent an inordinate amount of time ensuring the perfect balance was reached between a lounge and a restaurant. On any given night, you get the impression that you could walk in and hear a jazz trio or find a DJ spinning; either way, it works.

On the lounge side, it’s easy to get comfortable at the Station. The lighting is cast low and when reflecting off the already dark tones of the renovated walls and the exposed brick, you feel welcomed to spend some time and do some casual damage to your liver. What’s nice, and perhaps this is a reflection of the demographic (ostensibly above the age of 30, teetering on 40), the music was lounge- or acid-jazz, but not too loud; just enough to have a good chat. For those looking for some liquid courage or to enjoy the art of imbibing,  there is a specialty cocktail menu with drinks such as the “derailer” consisting of bourbon, maraschino cherry liquor, simple syrup, absinthe and bitters or the “corpse reviver #2” made with gin, Cointreau lillet blanc lemon and absinthe. I had a “whizz bang” which was described as ‘pretty’ but with a bang! With scotch, dry vermouth, grenadine and absinthe, it wouldn’t take too many of these to get you to your happy place. The beers were equally eclectic, with Green Flash IPA, Bells Porter and Smuttynose Brown Dog in bottle.  Beers were a bit pricy at $7 and $9 respectively, but the cocktails were relatively cheap when compared to a similar bar in Manhattan ranging from $9 - $11.

As the whizz bang wasn’t taking very long to get to my head, I ordered the Rice Fritters ($8) and my company ordered a grilled cheese sandwich ($13) with fries and we all shared a slice of cheesecake ($8).  Of the latter, they’re hard to screw up but it takes a good chef to elevate these to new heights. The grilled cheese was properly pan-seared with the appropriate amount of butter and a good cheese to bread ratio. I’m a bit old-schooled when it comes to these things, so this sandwich was just plain delicious in hitting its spot. I won’t get into the cheese blends or whathaveyou – it’s not important. The overall focus on clean, substantial and tastiness left my friend fully satiated. With a mountain of accompanying string fries that resembled McDonald’s in form, the overall meal was a delight. The highlight though was the chef whipping up a ranch dressing on the fly. The dish was served without any sauces to dip, but upon requesting, the creamy and fresh ranch delivered was the perfect antidote. The risotto fritters (billed as rice fritters) were appropriately sized for an appetizer. I always say that you can deep fry a shoe and it’ll taste good, but in this case, this was pretty damn tasty.  Served with 6 in a tin can, there was an elegance in the dish that one can’t find in its cousin – the mozzarella cheese stick. Unlike the cheese sandwich, it was served with a tomato-based dip, but it wasn’t a straightforward marinara. This place is too classy for that sort of thing.

With the full round coming in at less than $70 for the three of us, I’d chalk this place up as a win for Long Island City. Relative to the spots along Vernon, it’s unique and it resembles just enough of the many Manhattan lounges, but without the snobbery, to make you feel deeply satisfied just for walking in.  I, for one, look forward to returning as soon as an actual trio takes a corner and further heightens an already relaxed, but invigorating mood.