BLVD BAR

Wine Bar 
by Daniel Mencher

The place looks alright at first glance. The post-chic warehouse ceiling presides over a bare concrete floor and unassuming walls with no molding and the occasional piece of art that, though the image is clear enough, leaves one wondering what precisely one is supposed to be looking at. The low-hanging light fixtures are industrial, in a trendy way. The lighting is low, but one can see fine; similarly, there is a din, yet there is no trouble carrying on a conversation. There is a shiny new cappuccino machine in the corner.

No, I did not just describe a Starbucks – well, actually yes, I did, but the intended object was BLVD, a new wine bar on Center Boulevard right next to Shi.

First impressions are deceptively unfair, though, so let us consider the larger picture. It is true that the place does not, as some lounges do, scream “COZY!” with such emphasis that it is like getting hit in the face with a pillow. But at the same time, not everyone is looking to go out for an evening just to find himself in a public reproduction of his own living room. BLVD offers something perhaps more in tune with what makes for an appealing destination. The modern look; the layout that leaves the place neither crowded nor empty; the waterfront boulevard providing a pleasant view out the window; the choice among bar, tables, and lounge couches (which are in fact quite comfortable); the wall behind the bar packed solidly with a tremendous selection of wines from all over the world: these all combine to create an atmosphere quite befitting the blissful renaissance that Long Island City is experiencing, and in the midst of which BLVD opened just a few short months ago.

Speaking of the wines, which are ultimately the most important facet of the experience, the ownership has done a truly wonderful job. The menu is large (barely short of 60 diverse wines) and divided into sections both professionally relevant and appreciable by layfolk: house wines, bubbles, crisp whites, rich whites, light reds, and bold reds. And craft beer, too, so that different folks of different strokes can all hang out together under one inclusive roof.

The wines are top within the $6-$25 per glass range, and the staff combines a friendly, attentive attitude with a great knack for explaining the choices and recommending good ones. When they bring the wines out, even though a separate vessel carries the pre-measured volume of wine, they still carry the whole bottle along and offer it for inspection. A really nice touch.

Among the crisp whites, I was not especially moved by the Cantina Fratelli Pardi Trebbiano from Umbria, though that was the only wine I tasted that left me unsatisfied. It is aromatic, but not too flavorful. I found myself more partial to the Carabella Pinot Gris from Oregon, which takes to the terroir in the Pacific Northwest as though it were native to the region. By far the best of the rich whites is the Saffirio Langhe Bianco: at $16 per glass it is well worth the money, offering oak and sweetness that complement each other in a way I have never tasted elsewhere, a pleasant surprise that is a treat to explore. What a beautiful wine, my favorite of the evening.

The best light red is the Covila Rioja Crianza, an excellent example of Spanish viticulture that, at $10 per glass, is a phenomenal value. Unlike many inexpensive light reds, this Rioja does not lack whatsoever for nuance or character. Those interested in trying something new and different in this category should probably go for the Sablonette Le Bon P’Tit Diable Cab Franc. The server described this one as “funky”, which is a bit like describing outer space as “big”. Within the category of bold reds, the Kuyen blend offers typical Chilean notes and style for those into the region, and one just cannot go wrong with the Vigilance Cabernet Sauvignon from Lake County California, which is flavorful, a little sweet, a little spicy, balanced, and thoroughly pleasing. A superb wine at $12 per glass.

All in all, the service, wines, and atmosphere made it easy to forget the shortcomings of the décor pretty quickly (though I still wish that the stools at the tables had backs on them so that I did not have to hunch forwards). Besides, décor is easily augmented. There is a patio out back, and by the time warmer weather comes around, BLVD expects to be offering seating and service out there. Other items on the horizon include the activation of the kitchen, so that small plates (think tapas) will appear on the menu. Twelve months ago the location was the lease office for the surrounding properties; in short order is has been made into an upscale modern wine bar.

The analogy, actually, is too compelling to ignore. Long Island City was once a rolling catalogue of abandoned warehouses and crumbling edifices, a total waste of a waterfront community. Now there is luxury housing, upscale shopping, fancy dining, and craft foods – a typical item at a local supermarket’s deli counter is gorgonzola tortellini in a walnut cream sauce. (I mean, really now!) Similarly, a space in which, once upon a time, the nicest object to behold was a desk calendar, is now a wine bar complete with a lounge and patio, and a staff expertly able to recommend the best of the dozens of high-caliber wines on the shelf.

BLVD is a great place in a great place, and we can all be thankful for what it represents.